So, you’re planning the Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) trek this November, and wondering:
“Do I have to hire a guide, or can I go solo?”
If you’ve been scrolling through Facebook groups, Reddit, or Lonely Planet forums, you’re probably seeing a wild mix of answers. Some say a guide is 100% mandatory, others claim they just walked in with their permit and no questions asked. So what’s the truth?
Let’s clear the fog—TrekHeaven style.
The Official Rule (As of April 1, 2023)
Nepal’s government did introduce a new rule that requires all foreign trekkers to hire a licensed guide for treks in areas governed by the Nepal Tourism Board (NTB). This includes popular regions like Annapurna, Langtang, and Manaslu.
That said—implementation has been inconsistent. And that’s where things get fuzzy.
The Reality on the Ground
Despite the formal announcement, most trekkers in 2023 and early 2024 still completed the ABC trek solo—no guide, no issues at checkpoints. Permits were checked, not guide presence. Here’s what multiple recent trekkers reported:
- At Birethanti checkpoint (ABC trail start), only permits were checked.
- No questions asked about guides.
- Trekkers were allowed to proceed alone, even in November peak season.
- No enforcement teams were seen along the trail.
So while the rule exists, enforcement is lax—at least for now. And especially in the Annapurna region, where the local tourism economy still heavily relies on flexible solo trekkers.
Permits You Do Need
Regardless of whether you hire a guide or not, you must carry these:
- ACAP Permit (Annapurna Conservation Area Permit)
- NPR 3,000 for foreigners (~$22–25)
- Available at the Tourism Office in Pokhara or Kathmandu.
- TIMS Card (Trekkers’ Information Management System)
- NPR 2,000 if issued through an agency (required if you go with a guide)
- Not strictly enforced for solo trekkers anymore, but it might be requested.
Should You Go Without a Guide?
If you’ve done high-altitude treks before and feel confident navigating routes and dealing with altitude, you probably can trek solo. The ABC trail is well-marked, has regular foot traffic, and plenty of tea houses.
But there are some serious considerations:
- Altitude sickness is real. Even fit, experienced hikers can be caught off guard.
- Weather can turn quickly in the mountains.
- Solo trekkers have, in rare cases, gone missing or passed away due to illness, injury, or exposure.
- If you’re trekking in November, expect crowded lodges. Groups often pre-book, and solo trekkers may struggle to find rooms.
One unfortunate recent case was reported where a solo South Korean woman died near Thorong La Pass on the Annapurna Circuit—likely due to altitude or cold. While the ABC trek doesn’t go that high, it’s a reminder: solo doesn’t mean risk-free.
So, What Should You Do?
Here’s our take:
- Legally? A guide is required on paper.
- Practically? Most still trek without one—and rarely face issues.
- Ethically and safely? You should consider your own experience level and health.
If you’re a first-time trekker in Nepal or new to high-altitude trekking:
➡️ Hire a guide. They’re affordable, knowledgeable, and potentially life-saving.
If you’re confident, fit, and have done similar treks before:
➡️ You’ll likely be fine solo, but be prepared, acclimatize properly, and don’t push your limits.
Bonus Tips for a Smooth Trek
- 6 days for ABC? That’s tight. Most take 8–10 days round trip. Trying to squeeze it into 6 can lead to exhaustion or even altitude issues.
- Start from Birethanti or Nayapul, not Ghandruk, if you’re aiming for the full experience.
- Book your tea house in advance or aim to reach early in the day during peak season.
- Confirm the latest permit rules in Pokhara—they’ll have the most up-to-date info.
Final Thoughts
Solo trekking isn’t banned—but it comes with risks and responsibilities. The Annapurna Base Camp trek in November is stunning, and whether you walk it solo or with a guide, make sure your journey is well-prepared, well-paced, and well-respected.
If in doubt, don’t hesitate to message guides or local agencies beforehand. Or drop your query in the TrekHeaven Facebook group—someone’s always happy to help.
