The Hippie Trail: A Journey to Freedom
Back in the ‘60s and ‘70s, a wave of young Western travelers set out on a journey eastward, seeking adventure, spirituality, and escape from the constraints of conventional society. This overland route, famously known as the Hippie Trail, stretched from Europe through Turkey, Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan, India, and Nepal.
For many, Kathmandu was the final stop—a paradise of cheap living, cultural mystique, and a vibrant community of like-minded wanderers. Freak Street (Jhochhen Tole) became the heart of this movement, filled with small guesthouses, smoky tea shops, and hashish-laden cafes. As time passed, Thamel took over as the new traveler hub, welcoming a fresh wave of seekers, trekkers, and soul-searchers.
In this column, Nepal Nostalgia, we bring together the memories of those who walked these trails, sharing their stories of love, friendship, and unforgettable experiences in Nepal.
KC’s and the Golden Era of Hippie Trail Kathmandu
If the walls of KC’s restaurant in Kathmandu could talk, they would whisper stories of a time when Kathmandu was the final stop on a journey of discovery. The ‘60s and ‘70s saw young travelers from all over the world following the overland hippie trail, drawn to Nepal’s mystique, spirituality, and, of course, the irresistible charm of its people and places. KC’s was more than a restaurant—it was a meeting ground, a landmark, and a piece of history that still lingers in the memories of those who once passed through its doors.
A Place of Serendipity and Shared Meals
Tony Jones sums it up best: “Course we do. And he’s still a National Treasure around Thamel and beyond.” For many, KC was more than a restaurateur; he was a legend, a familiar face in a city where strangers became friends over shared meals.
Some, like one traveler, found more than just good food there:
“Visited the restaurant for the first time in ‘77. Went there again in ‘87 and shared a table with a woman who in the future became my wife. We went back together and had lunch there in 2016!”
That’s the magic of KC’s—the way it wove people’s stories together, making chance encounters into lifelong memories.
Christmas Feasts and Top Deck Adventures
For those on the road during the holidays, KC’s provided warmth and community.
“Had Xmas meal in 1976 at his restaurant,” recalls Sally Jobson, while Butch Hyslop fondly remembers “Xmas Meal for two busloads of Top Deck punters in 1982.”
It wasn’t just a restaurant; it was home for weary travelers who had spent months on the road, craving a place where they could celebrate and feel at ease.
The Changing Face of Thamel
Thamel, once a quieter alternative to Freak Street’s bohemian chaos, became the heart of Kathmandu’s traveler scene in the ‘80s and ‘90s. Paul Storey and Rajeev Goel reminisce about long-gone favorites like Jamaly’s Pie Shop and the legendary lemon meringue pies from the early ‘70s.
Larry Guzin paints a vivid picture of KC’s golden era:
“KC’s (“KC Steakpub and Bambooze Bar”, its advertised name) rose up in the heart of Thamel. It was THE traveler eatery in the 80s and 90s. Great food; large, round tables for big groups, great steaks and cakes and coffee for afternoons; intricate chalk-drawn wall menu; and a little fan to exhaust the dining room air and grab the diners’ attention. Now KC’s is a fraction of its original size and an afterthought of the KTM dining scene. KC’s was GREAT in its day!”
Change is inevitable, but for those who were there, the memories remain frozen in time—the laughter, the camaraderie, the steaming plates of food, and the sense of belonging in a city far from home.
The Legacy Lives On
KC’s is still standing in Thamel, though perhaps a shadow of its former self. But the stories, the nostalgia, and the impact it had on generations of travelers? Those remain.
Spencer White puts it simply: “I remember him. And decent food.”
For some, it was a quick meal. For others, it was where life-changing conversations happened. But for all, KC’s was part of a Kathmandu that welcomed the wanderers of the world with open arms.
